Salivate

The Magic Potion

2009-12-05T17:12:00.008+08:00

I've never been to a gourmet coffee joint. Starbucks, Coffee Bean and DOME are about the only high-brow coffees I indulge in. But when I spotted this back-of-the-complex corner in Shaw Parade (Pudu), a non-descript but clearly coffee-obsessed place, I had go in and take a sniff.

I ordered a siphon Guatemala. The ladies did a good job of letting me sniff the beans before grinding them and gently stirring them to a perfect brew in the siphon flask. Very nice. There was an aftertaste that just could not be extracted from a regular espresso machine or filter. But that's not the point of this post.

An Ice-Drip Apparatus (from Jaya 33 as seen on Jane Lee's blog.)

The point of this post is this out-of-this-world contraption I saw suspended above the bar that looked like it belonged in a wizard's magic shop or chemist's lab rather than a gourmet coffee joint. Piqued to the max, my curiosity was more than aroused. I mean, what could be cooler than my favorite obsession meets the druid?

The lady explained to me that this was the 'Ice-Drip Coffee' apparatus. Which, instead of using hot water or steam, coffee is extracted using ice-cold water. The freezing liquid is perfused through coffee grounds and collected in a quaint spiral glass tube. The burgundy elixir is collected over six hous, 1 drop a minute! The potion is then stored in cold temperature for the discerning drinker; who knows that the flavors change every day and reaches its most exhilarating at the end of 2 weeks. AMAZING! She had me at ice extraction.

Could I go home without a bottle after that? NO WAY.

I had my first sip today - a day 3 product - and its like having coffee liquer with all the freshness of a just-percolated brew PLUS the lift of aromas I have never before experienced in a cup of coffee. There really are no words to describe this so just head on down to Typica Cafe and get your magic potion today!

A little googling tells me this is a recent innovation and that a place in Jaya 33 has got the contraption for sale... Hmmm... Wonder if I will, someday.

Simply Penang

2009-06-21T15:33:00.007+08:00

Simply Penang is tuck in a non-descript corner of the old wing in 1U. Good thing too, because I’d rather the place remain a closely guarded secret to true food lovers who want to stay away from glitz and faddish frenzies. Boasting all things Penang, I’ve got to say they really have got it all. Or almost all.

Let’s start with UMBRA. The drink made from the fibrous hog plum (Spondias dulcis aka Ambarella or kedondong) and sour khana. A gravid woman’s delight and a real gustatory enhancer. A sip of this sharp, twangy, citrussy and refreshing drink will put you in the mood for everything else Penang to follow.

Char Kuay Teow, is of course, the benchmarking product. This is not bad. It does lack burn. But the generous servings of cockles and shrimp more than makes up for the absence of fury. A 7/10 for this.

There’s a long list of Nyonya rice combinations, the lobak-nyonya fried chicken being my favorite. Shown here is the soy-fried shrimp, shrimp sambal and curry chicken combo. Sambal belacan is free flow and very authentic.

Their prawn sambal plus ju-hu-char goes into the rice dishes and makes it very nyonya. Flavorful and lip-smacking.

Hokkien mee (aka prawn mee) here is amazing. The noodles are bouncy fresh. The meats are succulent. Extra (bottomless) sambal is provided for extra oomph. But try not to adulterate it with too much sambal. The crustacean stock that goes into this soup is like swimming in a shrimp juice. Nggggghhhh. You know what I mean.

Last, but not least is their winning curry mee. It comes coconut-milk white with a spoonful of lethal curry paste to be mixed in. And, in their usual generosity, more of the killer ground putty is provided for the steel-stomached or suicidal. The pre-curried soup is very fragrant, noodles are bouncy, as are the fresh meats. But it's the curry paste that takes you to Andromeda and back. It's so well integrated, I honestly can't make out what condiments of the gods go into it. But there's a unique touch of charring and barely detectible dried chillis. Beyond that, it's all just one massive taste-bud orgy that you wish would never end.

The Lobak platter is good for a meal or a shared snack. Crisp and tasty. The taufu is fresh. The prawn crackers (cucur udang) is fragrant. And the lobak is wildly juicy with crisp wraps.

And a journey through Penang delights can only be complete with its Ais Kachang and Chendol. I’m sorry to say this, but Swatow Lane has been beaten. The fruit & ice-cream topped ice kacang, with large chunks of red beans and cincau and crunchy peanuts makes one proud to be Malaysian.

The Chendol almost makes it to Penang Street level. But it’s good enough.

Complete your gustatory rendezvous with KOPI O KAU and you’ve got the whole of Penang under your belt. Simply.

Selamat Seething Sisters' Laser-Fried CKT

2009-04-16T21:45:00.007+08:00

The recommendations for penang-style charred noodles abound. Penangites will swear on holy books for their 'best wan' - under the tree, by the fire hydrant, behind the petrol station.

Me, I don't have the luxury to muck around the island hunting down the perfect blazed noodles. So.. the safest bet is to head to to good old Lorong Selamat.

The angry sisters are still there. Spewing venom,. Calling down lightning. And dragon-breathing all their blazing fury into the hapless wok. I swear it's her laser stare that burns the edges of her koay teow into the perfect crisp. Don't be fooled. Her cyclops visors are more to keep you from vaporising than for eye care.

They've moved down the street 20 metres or so and their spot has been replaced by a wannabe. He's got his own visor and all (like he needs it) but he just doesn't have the rage. You've got to have burnishing rage. We CAN TASTE YOUR ANGER. We NEED to taste your anger! Wimpy, nice guy CKT doesn't cut it for me.

But then, hey, he's good for some photography at least.. He's got skill, no doubt. He's got showmanship and charisma too. His char spews aerosolised chilli and oil in holy smoke the right way. But most of all I'm too chicken to photographh Medussa. Visions of turning into a pillar of ash flashed briefly before I turned my camera to the more amenable subject on Lrg Selamat.So here's some CKT kung fu from the amicable photogenic shaolin master:

First things first: bean sprouts, eggs and shrimps
Then the koay teow and soy
Finally a power stir on high flame

Seen here is the laser-fired product of the Seething Sisters. Succulent prawns, juices insulated in by a micrometre-thin rapid-fire burnt layer of char. The fettucine is bouncy soft and the master mix of molten lard, semi-coagulated egg, soy, garlic and chilli makes for a truly delectable delight!

LOK-LOK gets a Grill

2009-04-05T13:54:00.006+08:00

I'm crazy about LOK-LOK, the fondue of Malaysia that has me salivating come weekends when pasar malams stop traffic and bring out the hunter-gatherer in us. It's TGIF - Total Gluttony In Full-Force.

The thing I like about KL lok-lok is that it has evolved from the good 'ol dip-em and eat-em to a full range of batter-fry delicacies and charred-to-perfection barbeque meat-on-sticks.

A standard pig-out at the lok-loks would entail 2 sticks siham (shellfish), 1 stick foochow meatball, 1 stick beef-tendon ball and 1 stick fish ball. For the calorie-conscious quickie: 2 sticks siham + 1 stick foochow meatball. But to have lok-lok-seventh-heaven, you've got to go for the grill.

My grill chart toppers would be the chicken kebab with capsicum and dried pork (yok kon/long yok). Taiwan sausages would come in at number 3. A flash dip into a cauldron of bubbling oil starts off the process to seal flavors from the outside. They are then burnt slowly over embers of coal and intermittently basked with sweet soy sauce. The moment the corners turn crisp brown, the sticks are quickly coated with chilli powder before it's handed to you hot, piping, and oh so amazingly aromatic.

BBQ sticks are to be enjoyed slowly, letting the crunchy corners crackle in your mouth while the sweet meaty juices coat your tongue as you sink in your teeth. A bite into the inter-spersed cubes of capsicum will add a zesty twang before you chomp them all down in heavenly transport. Good satay sauce is also available for that extra oomph.

If ambience is important to you: tungsten light bulbs give a touch of old-town charm, a constant roar of gurgling soup pots and the whirring of a generator near by can be quite hypnotic as well.

See you next week at the pasar malam?

Kurau Acar Fried Rice

2009-03-28T18:42:00.004+08:00

Acar ikan kurau masin is a highly specialised and acquired taste. I presume it's a malay power preserved food that comes from salted kurau fish and pickles.

The very creative chef at CHARMS in 1U has somehow worked the potent paste into a delectable delight they call the Kurau Acar Fried Rice.

The rice alone is a transport to taste. They have however added on a fried egg, their signature sambal, and some kunyit fried chicken for variation and fill.

A wonderful creation. Lip-smacking. Will keep me salivating for a week until I visit 1U again! Now if I can get my hands on some of the original acar stuff and make some myself..

Mother of Chee Cheong Funs

2008-03-30T21:59:00.003+08:00

If you don't know what chee cheong fun is, it's going to be hard for this post to make sense to you. I'll try anyway: chee cheong fun are sheets of steamed rice flour, rolled into tubes. They are traditionally served with sticky sweet brown sauce and sesame seeds or a thin curry sauce. This place in Pudu is a fusion of Yong Tau Foo (another task to explain..) and Chee Cheong Fun.

As you can see, they serve up more than CCF ad YTF; the braised loh shee fun is my must-have.

My wife goes for the curry CCF every time. It's garnished with crushed crispy shrimp to give it that added kick.

The YTF selection is varied enough to make a good meal of crunchies and soupies.

OKONO WHA??

2008-01-11T23:55:00.000+08:00

OKONOMIYAKI. The best darned food to come out of Japan next to Sushi, IMHO.

This place in Low Yat Plaza (basement) serves up a mean Yaki. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...

Starting with the base on the hot plate.

Then slop on soba, vege and seafood.

A few strips of bacon for the oink factor.

Top it with fried egg.

Add on another layer of fried batter.

Garnish, mayo and Okonomiyaki sauce for topping... and..

WALAH... OKONMIYAKI.

Juicy and meaty on the inside. Crispy batter layers. Creamy sauce toppings with crunchy garnishings. Semi-sweet stocky magic brown sauce to keep it all glued together. What can I say? Heaven on earth.

Curry me away

2007-11-23T23:20:00.000+08:00

There are days when you want throw caution to the wind and let cravings take over. For days like that, you have things like CURRY LAKSA. I doubt anyone needs an introduction to what it is. Though there are so many varieties of the LAKSA, some qualification is needed. Depending on where you are, the term LAKSA has means different things. In Sarawak, it is a belacan based curry. In Penang, there is no curry; it is a shrimp-paste-based sour concoction made for days when you want to lose all sensation on your tongue - outside of Penang, it's called Assam Laksa. Johor has its own variety. For Balinese or whatever other exoticas, you can try The Laksa Shack, though I don't guarantee authenticity.

Curry Laksa in KL, is simply that - curry noodles.

What makes a good curry laksa? Let me see,.. I'd narrow it down to these criteria:

1) COCKLES - Fresh, juicy cockles. Medium rare. Cooked enough not to ooze blood from the corner of your mouth (Ugh!). Undercooked enough to spurt glorious juices all over your palate and stay there for awhile for the after-taste (Ahhhh!). *WARNING FROM THE SURGEON GENERAL: Under-cooked cockles are a known vector for the Hepatitis A virus*
2) CURRY - Not so thick that it sticks to the spoon, tongue, throat and continues to slime around till you sleep at night. Not so thin that you can see through it. Also finely laced with coconut milk, just enough to line your coronary arteries with a film of cholesterol. Yes... Cardiologists recommend curry mee daily lest they run out of patients.
3) Other features - chicken slices, char siew, pork skin, taugeh. All add interest and flavor to the essentials above.

The ones featured here is from the Taman Midah hawker street. Quite good. 8/10 for me.

One Ton of Slithering Goodness

2007-11-07T22:28:00.000+08:00

I just realised that I've never done anything on Wan Tan Mee. The Klang Vally signature dish that no other Malaysian variation does justice to. Wan Tan Mee outside of Klang Valley is schlock. Anyone who talks of Penang Wan Tan Mee or Sibu Kampua or Kuching KoLok Mee as comparable needs to have his taste buds checked. The cheap imitations that pretend to be Wan Tan Mee may be reckoned for what they are, and may actually be pretty good in their own right,.. but get this straight: they are NOT Wan Tan Mee.

CHAR SIEW WAN TAN MEE is a tradition,.. no, it's an INSTITUTION. And an art form of gustational delight. Where should I start? The noodles? The charred pork? Or the soft wanton?

Let's start with the noodles, seemingly the most easy part of the dish. It looks like, well, just, noodles.. but if not done right it's crap. The wanton mee chef must be able to take the raw, lightly powdered noodle-bundle through a series of boiling-hot and cold water baths, in the exact timing and sequence for it to come out cooked, tender, and separate. Before there was the PCR thermocycler, there was the wanton mee kungfu master. Each noodle must be a single discrete strand not enmeshed into one another. And they must be individually firm, not mushy and slopping on to each other. To add to its silky strand-by-strand smoothness they may be laced with a hot stock-sauce that is barely noticeable but lifts the noodle from the ordinary to the heavenly.

Then,.. comes the charred pork, or CHAR SIEW. These are chunks of pork, marinated with a secret blend of spices and sauces and roasted, usually in a large, blackened oil barrel almost the height of a wanton-mee kungfu master. For all its primitiveness, it is a wonderful way to make roast pork. The wanton mee kungfu master worth his salt, charres his own siew. Early in the morning he will be seen setting a pile of coal ablaze under his large black cauldron. Chanting, puffing and occasionally lifting out the porcine portions for inspection, a billowing cloud will shroud the populace, signalling the coming of char siew. When the tender meats are ready, they are sliced thinly but not so thin that they blow off in the wind (like Kampua) or so thick that you have to gnaw for hours. The peripheries are reddish-brown, almost black and will be crispy at the farthest edges. The meat within should be firm and still retain some moisture. The aromas of the spices would have permeated the meat thoroughly and jet steam into your olfactory nerve upon first bite.

Wanton. Wanton are simply meat-rolls. Light, in a refreshing soup. But again, this can be done wrong in so many ways. Too much meat and it will feel like having a whole meal in itself. Too little, it's nothing more than a flour ball. Just right, and again rapidly passed through the boil, the meats should be chewy, the wrap silky, and the after-taste, oh-so-yummy.

OK. Where can you get this? KL has quite a few places that passes the test of authenticity. You can't just walk into any coffee shop that has a stall selling wanton mee and think it's KL Wanton Mee. There's practically one in every coffee house and food court in this city. The few that make the mark in my list (and I'm happy to be introduced to any I've missed) are: Khoon Kee (Petaling Street), Toong Kwoon Chye (Jln Bukit Bintang), and one I've recently discovered that top them all, Jalan Pahang (corner shop, few shoplots from Kamal Book Store.)

The one at Jalan Pahang (I'll update this one I get the name), from which these photos were taken is a classic place. Attesting to its superior quality are two things: the crowd, and the behavior of the crowd. It's always packed in the mornings. People with papers, people in neckties, doctors with stethoscopes (the General Hospital is just opposite), renal failure patients with cathethers in their neck, schoolkids with their bags and doctors late for work because they are waiting for their wanton mee. And all these people, regardless of their status in society, sits quietly, not raising a finger or whimper. They wait. They do not annoy the lady-boss with rude orders. You are seen, not heard,.. until the lady-boss decides it's time to take your order, and not a second earlier. Amateurs are seen walking up to the stall and demanding their portion... hahaha... they will never eat. This place has all the above qualities of wanton mee, plus the attitude.

Needless to say, I love it.

Hill Top Ha Kau

2006-05-20T23:19:00.000+08:00

Grill Galore

2006-05-19T18:10:00.000+08:00

What happens when Dusun meets Bajau on the northern coasts of Borneo? They break out the BAR-B-Q that's what! The variety of grills burning flesh here is akin to some kind of sea-spirit religious rite, appeasing the ocean-gods with burnt offerings and incense of coals! Ok, I'm exaggerating, but just take a walk along the grills of Kinabalu coast and the offerings will have you salivating silly and you will get a little sacrilegous too.

Nestled between the Handicraft Bazaar and the Central Market, almost toppling into the sea, is this crowded commotion of grills, woks, and makeshift eating tables. On one side are the Malay delicacies of goreng pisang, Murtabak, and a whole lot of other delectable delights I can't even get into. But the rest of it is searing, sizzling, sputtering flesh on fire. Something you don't want to miss.

Alas! But I DID miss it... Saving our tums for fresh seafood at Salut, I could only take photographs, no bites. So please, if you're reading this - the next time you are in Borneo, go sink your teeth into something hot and sizzling from the grill for me and tell us all how it goes.

Finding the place

Swatow Food Paradise

2006-05-06T01:27:00.000+08:00

Ok, this one's for Daphne who has been salivating for a month. It's not that I haven't been eating, Daphne, I just don't find my photos of good enough quality to post. Obviously I've been paying more attention to TASTING the food than PHOTOGRAPHING IT! I dug into my archives, and found some not too bad shots from Swatow. Now I regret not taking more photos from there.

The anchor legend stall in this food paradise is the Ice Kachang. And this is no ordinary, run-off-the-mill ABC. It's so good, it won awards in a food fair in Australia. How ABC went to Australia is another story... Anyways, all Penangites know this place. This legendary ABC is so because of its liberal interpretation of the old crushed ice genre of dessert. Loaded with generous cuts of fresh fruit, the tang of mangoes, guavas, jambu air, raisins and bananas makes every mouthful an invigorating wake-up call. Ice-cream is a must add-on to give the base of syrups and peanuts that extra creamy lift.

Swatow, apparently is a town or province in China where the Teo Chews come from. And Swatow lane does have a few samplings of Teo Chew food, like the fishball noodles you see below.

What's the big deal about fish-ball noodles, you say! Well, don't be fooled. Because this fish ball is the mother of all fish balls. The TEOCHEW kind. Teo Chews apparently aren't too crazy about fish on its own and found a way to marry the pig and the fish in this spherical delight. Bite into the bouncy periphery of the ball and a soft, squishy core of pork will ooze... (It does remind me of a few surgical lesions, but I won't get into that.) Fragrantly spiced and fascinatingly chewy and tasty.

Swatow lane is a very cosy place. Tucked in a corner with large trees to provide shade, it isn't easily found from the main routes of Penang Island. Other amazing offerings there are the Pasembor and Assam Laksa sold by an Indian man from his bicycle. I promise I'll get a good picture the next time I'm there!!

Getting there
From Menara Komtar
Get on Penang, J and drive north
Turn left onto Burma
Turn right onto Transfer, J
Turn left onto Argyll, J
Turn left onto Larut,
Turn left onto Bawasah,J
Turn left onto Hutton, J
Turn right onto Swatow, L

Click on the pix above for full-size map of how to get there and what it looks like from the sky. Thanks to Liew Tuan Hock for providing GPS tracking software and Google Earth for the satellite photos.

Links
Incidentally, also found reviews on Swatow Lane ABC at Gluttom Island, Food Haven, Virtual Tourist, and Wikipedia!!.

Sup Kambing Au Spicy

2006-04-01T03:25:00.000+08:00

Sup Kambing has got to be one of those amazing things only to be found in Malaysia. Among many other homegrown delights unknown to man outside of this land, it is a piping hot, almost broth-like soup brewed for hours to bring out a splendid rich mix of flavors. No spice is spared in making this wicked tongue-tantalizer. Malaysia practically fluorished in the 14th and 15th centuries for its spice trade, and I imagine every spice known to man at that time ended up in the cauldron together with the lamb. And what a mighty mix that makes! There is something magical about mutton fat and cinammon that makes every mouthful a hair-raisingly pleasurable experience.

This place in the food court at the corner of Jalan Perak and Dato Keramat in Penang serves up a variety of meats and soups that beats the rest. Accompanying other mamak/warong fares like Mee Malaysia, Nasi Ayam Goreng, the total combination experience is great. But the soup alone can make a complete meal. Served with large chunks of bread to soak up the richness this is one meaty soup to enjoy heartily.

Find your way onto Jalan Perak and head for the large food court with lots of warongs just before turning into Jalan Dato Keramat. 'S' marks the spot on the map, and follow your nose once there.

MALAYSIAN MAKAN MANIACS

2006-04-01T01:22:00.000+08:00

I never knew there were so many of us out there!

It's like finding long-lost family members or a high school reunion, only with people you've never met. I bet there are many more out there. We need to unite and form some kind of Malaysian Food Bloggers Confederation.

Well, to start, here are a few really good ones:
Life of A Food Lover
Malaysia Best
Cafe of the East
Makan Kings
Chicks and Peas
Babe in the City

Know of any more? Do alert me and I'll get a list going. We should all exchange notes and really bring the best of M'sian Makan to the fore.

Beaming and Brimming

2006-03-12T13:59:00.000+08:00

Being an ardent fan of North Indian cuisine, the Pakistan trip for me was heaven in more ways than one. Although I suffered acute Naan toxicity from one puffy-slab too many, I'll never forget the Tikka, Tandoor and spicy lamb Kebabs I got in Islamabad. A cosy heated tent in the middle of the marketplace, icy winds billowing outside, and the fragrance of freshly made kebabs... What could be more perfect?

Now, a few thousand miles away, the search for something remotely close back home - has led me to the Pride of India. A little uptown and uppity-appearing, this place in Sri Hartamas is, surprisingly affordably priced. I did have some coupons to use, but that didn't detract from its good quality-to-price ratio. (A quick google shows it's been reviewed here, here, and here.

All their chefs are freshly flown from India, as are their meats. Succulent, tender and perfectly roasted or cooked to infuse flavors into the meat the intrinsic taste of flesh is retained (of the meats I mean, not the cooks) and brought out well by the delighting sparkle of herbs and spices.

Every bite is mmmmppphhhhh, ooooooooohhhh, and aaaaaaaaaahhhhhh. You get what I mean.

An open kitchen concept makes it all the more fascinating. Palming of meats onto the kebab skewer or sizzle-frying our Tandoor mix in full view brought on the salivation in torrents.

Try the Afghan Tandoor Mix of chicken, fish, prawn and lamb - barbequed and subsequently sizzled in a slippery mix of tomato and red wine vinegar.

The Lamb Rogan Josht or Vindaloo is creamy, bitingly spicy and juicy all at once.

And my favourite - the Sheesh Kebabs. Made to perfection, it's burnt crispy on the outside, with just the right amount of carcinogen coating, and soft but stingingly flavourful on the inside.

OK. I can't go on anymore. Bucketfuls of saliva are already pooling... Just head down to Desa Sri Hartamas and look for this place. You won't regret it. Ambience is nice, raunchy Tabla music to thumb to, quick and friendly service (ask for my favorite waiter, Mahesh from Hyderabad) and dainty decorum for eye candy as you wait anxiously for your food.

Getting there:
RESTAURANT PRIDE OF INDIA
No. 7G, Jalan 22A70A,
Desa Sri Hartamas,
50480 Kuala Lumpur.
Phone: +603-62014477

Moo for satisfaction

2005-09-02T03:31:00.000+08:00

This next destination in the search,.. is BEEF BALL NOODLES at Jalan Peel.

What IS Beef Ball Noodles? First of all, it is NOT Ngau Lam (Beef Noodles, Beef-Stock Noodles), as many dismiss it to be. Ngau Lam (NL) has a thick, beef-stock soup, BBN has a clear, refreshing soup. NL contains all the spare parts of a cow, BBN has only 2 forms of beef - ground beef and balls. NL served as a soup-noodle mix with a variety of noodles. BBN is exclusively a fine-noodle (think wanton mee) variety and comes as soup or dry-braised.

Ok, nuff about the technicalities. The FOOD.

The first and most important thing about BBN is not, the beef ball but the brisket that tops the noodles. The beef must be ground finely to a granular but still chewy consistency and blend the aromas of meat and soy sauce inseparably. Then comes the balls, which must be bouncy and firm to the bite, releasing again the bovine flavors that intermingle with its lightly peppered soup. Third is the noodle that carries it all. Any noodle eater (which is every Malaysian) knows the importance of a not overcooking his noodle as to lose its turgor, nor to serve it straight up without a quick cool rinse as to make it sticky-starchy. Finally, comes the lime-chilli sauce that has an abrupt bite and sharp tang with a slow after-burn.

Get it? No? Ok... go eat it.

Beef Ball Noodles is a KL city thing. There are only, known to me, three authentic sources that meet all the criteria above. One on Jalan Silang, the second, on Jalan Alor, and the third which I'm featuring here, Jalan Peel. Jalan Silang's quality has deteriorated considerably over the years. Jalan Alor has maintained its pristine standards, but is a bit difficult to get to through the Bukit Bintang madness.The most accessible and still satisfying dishing of BBN will be Jalan Peel.

Getting there: Drive along Jln Peel towards Jln Cheras. Find it directly opposite the Carrefour shopping complex, sitting inconspicuously amid other hawkers on a corner lot (corner of Peel & Shelley).

Magnificent Mamak Mess

2005-08-30T19:27:00.000+08:00

Just when you taught you've tasted it all. Mamak mee rojak? Eaten one, eaten it all, you say. I thought so, too. Until I pulled over at the foothill of Bukit China in Melaka, the largest ancient Chinese cemetery outside of China.

Under the watchful eyes of the centuries-long-dead I sampled it. And I broke down in humble adoration. I'm sure the spirits agreed with me. Quiet winds rustled through the trees and twigs cracked while I savored the magnificence in disbelief.

The Mother of Mamak Rojaks. Can it ever taste so good?

For the ignorant, Mamak Rojak, is a tossed salad of cucumbers, bean sprouts, radish, crispy bits, prawn fritters, beancurd and hard-boiled egg, topped with a powerfully spicy and sweet peanut gravy. This guy at Bkt China spoons his potion from a bubbling cauldron, and lets the molten loveliness flow and permeate into every cranny of your salad. The ingredients are crispy fresh and the gravy is what makes you sing.

Dark brown, it is thick but not gum-sticking thick. Warm, the aroma wafts through your nose before you take a bite, like a bit of a foretaste of glory. And spicy - this stuff is hot, not the bland, unremarkable stuff you get in KL or Penang. The sweetness isn't cringingly diabetic, emerging only as an aftertaste. It was so good, the plastic lining was forgivable, though detracting a bit from its authenticity.

If ever you're passing through Melaka and can only have ONE THING - let the Babas look for the Nyonya, leave the Portugese to history, rollover the Chicken Rice Balls. Head straight for the chinese cemetery and be prepared for a taste of heaven.

Getting there: Get onto Jalan Laksamana Cheng Ho somehow. If you have to circle the hill (around Jalan Bukit Gedong), enjoy the peaceful scenery and look out for the stalls on your left after you've passed the legendary Sam Poh Tong(17) and Puteri Hang Li Po(16). 'X' marks the spot on the treasure map, and a red circle localises it on the satellite photo, just in case you're flying in tonight on your private chopper.

Lip-smacking Longans!

2005-06-07T21:19:00.000+08:00

Both Joan and I grew up on this stuff. My wife used to get dumped at Popular Book Store on Cecil Street while her mom did marketing, and I've walked up and down the same street millions of times going to school and Chinese classes at Kwong Siew Temple. Such were our childhood memories - of hawking, spitting Chinamen, drains clogged with last year's refuse, the hollering of buy-one-free-one and fresh apples, and the wafting aromatic mix of every kind of Chinese kueh ever invented.

That's KL downtown for you.

This Longan drink store has marked the corner of Cecil and Petaling Street for ages past. They used to serve the drink in metal bowls and dunk-wash them in one pail of water. Today, paper cups and straws have replaced the old charm of clanking metal spoons - a price we pay for hygiene. But their drink has not deteriorated that much - something to do with their fresh, succulent longans but mostly because they are still surrounded by the old Petaling Street cacophony...

Fresh seafood by the sea

2005-03-25T18:45:00.000+08:00

Finding good and cheap seafood is like discovering a pot of gold. You want to hang on to it and NOT TELL ANYONE lest the price goes up or the place gets overcrowded.

But heck, being the charitable gustatory weblog owner I am, I'll tell you.

This is a a seafood farming spot at a kampung-by-the-river mouth in Sabah called SALUT. Just north of Kota Kinabalu, about a 30min drive and off the main road towards the coast where it says 'Kg. Salut.' Everything there is cheap. Everything is good.

One of those places where you fish your food out of the tank, squirming and splashing and hand it over to the chef. If you want it any fresher, you'll have to eat them alive! A complete spread must include a variety of shellfish, crabs and squid.

Siamese Inferno

2005-02-28T00:08:00.000+08:00

When it comes to Thai, Bangkok Jams and Amarinds don't cut it for me. There's nothing like Thai dishes whipped up by native Siamese, and cooked like it was for the Siamese... No adulteration or dilution of the inferno. No sparing of lip burn, intestinal heat and anal fires the day after.

Anyone who has lived in Kelantan will tell you the place to go is Chieng Mai Restaurant, tucked away in the little kampung of Wakaf Bharu, behind a beautiful Siamese temple gilded in gold. Every few hours the Eastern express train will make its chugging journey past, interrupting the crickets and rustling the man-high lalang.

The favourites are their Khaeng Som (a spicy-sour steamed fish with a variety of vegetables, kept piping hot by an under-flame) and Phat Pet Belut (chopped eel fried with fresh pepper corns and glorious Thai spices and herbs).

Both are addictive and wildly corrosive! Also try the volcano chicken (a whole barbequed bird skewered upside down and doused in flaming spirits) and crispy trotters (ask for the radius-ulna and not the tibia-fibula part of the oink.)

If you're ever in Kelantan - make sure the locals bring you there (as only the locals know the serpentine route to the place.) I may be persuaded to draw you a map or even better - let out a secret of where to get some in KL!

Claypot Loh Shue Fun

2005-02-15T21:59:00.000+08:00

As promised, ChiQ has dutifully photographed, reviewed (and indulged herself to) the Claypot Loh Shue Fun she was raging about! In her words: 'presented.. sizzling in its claypot, with an egg that was just beginning to form. A little on the salty side, but then again, I prefer my food a little bland. They were very generous with the meat and mushrooms, nice chunky bite sized.'

Photo by ChiQ

Location: Cravings, 1 Utama Shopping Centre

Thanks ChiQ and see you there one day!

Share it here!

2005-02-12T11:00:00.000+08:00

Had anything smackingly, lip-burningly, tearingly good lately? Must tell the world about it? Under that bridge, behind that temple or in the bush? Send me a picture or a short story and I'll post it here.

Looking hard for something you just have to have but can't find it? Ask here and let fellow hungry Malaysians help you.

Malaysians - we don't eat much. Only one meal that starts at 8am and ends at 12am at supper.

Naan and Tandoori

2005-02-12T10:39:00.000+08:00

What would life be without Naan and Tandoori? For that matter, what would Naan be without Tandoori and vice versa. The non-duality and inter-being of food is found right in a North Indian cuisine shop.

Of the innumerable places that claim to serve authentic North Indian, Kassim Mustafa must top them all. Probably one of the oldest of the many branches it has spawned, the place has old town Georgetown charm and none of that bright-lights, glitzy and squeaky-slick fast-food feel.

Half the pleasure is watching the kneading of the dough, seeing it get slapped into the earthenware oven, and watching your chicken drip in red-hot heat. The other half, oooohhh, the other half,.. is sinking your teeth through the crumbling crust and into the fluffy warmth of your bread... *Nnngggh* Meal is complete with Dhal, chutney, and tender Tandoori. I prefer Garlic Naan to the plain as it aromatizes the nose and keeps vampires away for hours! Enjoy!

Location: Kassim Mustaffa at the end of Lebuh Chulia

Coffee on the road

2005-02-12T06:02:00.000+08:00

Dr.Cheah writes on his blog:'Definitely a worthwhile stop if you happen to be in Kemaman. It is famous for its coffee and snacks. Menu is limited and certain food items can be sold out (as I happen to find out). But the ambience is that of a traditional kopitiam. Unfortunately, they do not appear to have any branches in KL. But the coffee is certainly worth trying.'

Penang CKT - the endless debate

2005-02-07T21:24:00.000+08:00

What do you have to do to get a good char kuay teow in Malaysia? Ask a Penangite and you'll get as many 'best CKT's as there are Penangites, unfortunately... The variety of favorites go from charcoal-dry to slippery-moist, from serene-bland to sea-salty, and from 2 dollar taugeh only to 8 dollar prawns & crabs.

The plate shown above is from the TWO SISTERS in Macalister road. I think this is the place most non-Penangites are taken to - the touristy version. But her kung fu in whipping up your plate of CKT is something to get down on your knees for.

The other one I like, which IMHO is superior to two sisters, is the one I call ANGRY SISTERS. This is on Lorong Selamat. Also another 'best char kuay teow' in Penang. I've dubbed them the 'Angry Sisters' coz they are always as black-faced as the bottom of their woks. But they sure know they are in demand - grown men wait in line with empty plates in hand (enlarge photo to believe)! And if the sisters should have a fight (which I hear is not uncommon), you will have to come back another day for your dose.

Fish Head Beehoon

2005-02-06T23:47:00.000+08:00

I haven't found any really good fish head beehoon in KL. Best one I know right now is in Pandan Indah - a stall in a row of Malay warongs, opposite a condominium. Very heavily frequented. And the product is quite good.

Fish head beehoon (for the unacquainted) is made of fleshy parts of the fish head deep fried to a crisp, mixed with beehoon (rice noodles) in a milky soup with salted vegetables, fried garlic bits and tomatoes. A very savoury and tangy concoction sure to satisfy.

Porcine goodness

2005-02-06T23:33:00.000+08:00

Everybody should know about this place. It's been my family's gold standard for Pork Ball Noodles for years. All others are Wing Hing Pork-Ball Noodle wannabes.

The pork balls (more like squares) are chewy and firm, while the roasted sausages (siew cheong) are perfectly charred on the outside and juicy on the inside. Noodles are generously laden with mince and can be taken dry/braised or soupy.

What else can I say? I had great breakfast today.

Location: Wing Hing Restaurant, Jalan Imbi

Putting the CHAR back in Hokkien Char

2005-02-05T14:20:00.000+08:00

Hokkien Char
A true KL-ite knows that there are only so many places where you can get authentic hokkien fried noodles in the city. For every one, there are probably 50 crass imitations. The loh chin pui in kepong, or cockroach alley in Petaling street - everyone has their favorite but they aren't easy to find

Still, nobody does it better than KL.

What's the ultimate hokkien char for you? Where is it found? What makes it oh-so-good? Tell us now!

Dipping the blues away

2005-02-01T05:08:00.000+08:00

LOK-LOK at Pulau Tikus market

This is the 'FONDUE' of Malaysia. There's nothing like meat on sticks and a variety of dips to match. Serves up every other day at the Pulau Tikus marketplace which turns hawker centre at night. Grab a seat and share the table with other slurpers and slooshers. Hygiene is not a priority. Best part is creating a new taste with varying proportions of sauces with every bite!

Know of a place to get a good, delicious dip? Let us know!

Squishy goodness from the sea

2005-02-01T03:20:00.000+08:00

This is reputedly THE BEST Oh Chien (Oyster Omelettes) in Penang. It really is fantastic - crispy at the corners, soft and squishy oysters in the center, and spicy. A real delight if you can ignore the oil spill after you finish!

This is only to be found at Seng Thor Cafe which is located at the corner of Carnavaron and Kimberley Street.